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The Westcountry Walker: Hiking Through History

Upton Castle in Upton Wood


Upton Castle in Upton Wood

Upton Castle stands on a small knoll in the valley of the River Lynher, a position overlooked on every side by higher ground. Although Cornish listed it as a “Defensive Earthwork”, its topographical setting has long raised doubts about its military value. Rodd considered that it could scarcely have been a fortification at all, and Malon went further, calling it “an antiquarian enigma”.

The visible remains consist of a circular rampart about eighty feet in diameter enclosing a rectangular interior. The rampart appears originally to have been built of large blocks of elvan laid without mortar, though only the lower courses now survive in place. Within the enclosure a rectangular structure, known as Enclosure A, is built of comparatively small stones and measures forty‑two feet by twenty‑four feet. A second, smaller compartment, Enclosure B, adjoins it on the south side, separated only by a narrow passage.

On the north side of the rampart an appendage, labelled C on early plans, may represent the original entrance. Pattison noted a “covered way” in this area together with “traces of foundations and made ground in the little plain below”. A later tradition records that part of the site was used by the prior and convent of St Stephen’s, Launceston, as a monk’s cell.

A charter of 1140 contains a brief reference to a John Upton, identified as the owner of Upton Castle. The remains include a mound and a tower‑like structure, and before the surrounding woodland developed the position would have commanded approaches leading up towards the moor. The name “Upton Castle” is still applied to the site.

The ringwork occupies a slight east–west knoll in a valley hemmed in by higher ground to the north, south and west. Immediately north of the site lies a natural gully about eighty metres wide and five metres deep. To the south a level terrace extends for roughly a hundred metres before dropping as a three‑metre scarp to the River Lynher. The monument is in good condition, with some deciduous growth in the masonry but no intrusion from the nearby conifer plantation.

The structure comprises a walled courtyard of D‑shaped plan containing one small attached building and a larger free‑standing one. All walling is of roughly coursed granite and killas, laid without mortar; clay and earth appear to have been used instead, with small packing stones rammed into the joints. The courtyard measures twenty‑three by twenty‑five metres internally, with walls between one and two metres thick and up to a metre high inside. Externally up to one and a half metres of walling is visible, though the base is obscured by a bank of tumbled stone three to five metres wide and at least a metre high. This may represent collapse, excavation spoil, or a deliberate attempt to reinforce the lower wall.

Traces of a ditch about three metres wide and 0.3 metres deep survive on the east and west sides. Its shallow depth suggests either a quarry ditch or an unfinished attempt to enhance the defences. In the north‑east corner an angular projection measuring six by three and a half metres internally may represent the base of an angle tower. Its floor lies a metre below the courtyard level, accessed by dropping over a masonry ledge. The walls are a metre thick and 1.3 metres high, with ragged gaps in the north and south sides that may indicate entrances. No internal subdivisions are visible.

To the south a small building measuring six by three and a half metres is attached to the courtyard wall. Gaps in the north‑west and east sides may represent original entrances, though this cannot be confirmed. Overall, Upton Castle appears to have been a defended manor house rather than a true castle, concealed within a narrow valley and possessing little strategic value. It is unlikely to have controlled access to the moor, though the identification of the John Upton mentioned in 1140 with this site is more plausible than the suggestion that the family residence lay at the later Upton Barton.

Bodmin Moor, the largest of the Cornish granite uplands, preserves one of the most extensive and best‑recorded archaeological landscapes in England. Detailed survey has revealed relict field systems, settlements, ceremonial monuments and later industrial remains spanning the prehistoric, medieval and post‑medieval periods. The survival of these features in close association provides direct evidence for long‑term human exploitation of the upland environment and allows successive phases of land use to be traced with unusual clarity.

Ringworks are medieval fortifications constructed and occupied from the late Anglo‑Saxon period to the later twelfth century. They consist of a small defended area containing buildings, surrounded wholly or partly by a substantial ditch and usually by a bank surmounted by a timber palisade or, more rarely, a stone wall. Some ringworks include a lightly defended bailey. They served either as military strongholds or as defended aristocratic or manorial residences. Ringworks are rare nationally, with only around two hundred recorded examples and fewer than sixty with baileys. In Cornwall only five are known, four associated with major post‑Conquest landholders and one — Upton Castle — with a lesser landholder on the periphery of Bodmin Moor.

Upton Castle is the only surviving example in Cornwall of a ringwork built as a defended manorial residence by a minor landowner during the Norman period. It is also the only Cornish ringwork with stone‑built defensive walls and internal buildings that has not been substantially altered by later re‑fortification. The documentary references to the Upton family place the monument within its historical context, while its repeated mention by antiquaries and archaeologists since the nineteenth century reflects its importance in the study of medieval settlement in Cornwall.

The ringwork stands on the crest of a rocky knoll on the northern side of the River Lynher valley, about ninety metres north of the river channel. The knoll rises gently from the river before ending at a steep natural scarp six metres high along its northern edge. The remaining sides are defined by lesser scarps up to three metres high, enclosing a sub‑circular, almost level area measuring thirty‑two metres north‑west to south‑east by thirty‑four metres north‑east to south‑west. Along the western, eastern and south‑eastern sides the defences were enhanced by cutting a single ditch up to three and a half metres wide and half a metre deep.

Within these earthworks a continuous perimeter wall of unmortared rubble survives up to one and a half metres high and two metres thick. Short tumbled breaks occur in the south‑east and north‑west sectors, though neither shows clear evidence of being an original entrance. At the north‑east corner the lower courses of a small ovoid structure descend the upper slope of the scarp from the line of the perimeter wall.

Inside the ringwork are the foundations of two sub‑rectangular buildings. The larger, interpreted as the hall, lies slightly north of centre and measures fourteen metres east‑west by eight metres north‑south internally. Its walls survive up to one and a half metres high and a metre thick, with opposing breaks in the long sides marking probable entrances. The smaller building, attached to the inner face of the southern perimeter wall, measures seven metres north‑south by three and a half metres east‑west. Breaks in its north‑west and east walls cannot be confirmed as original openings.

Upton Castle is considered to be the twelfth‑century defended manor house of the Upton family, whose name is preserved in the place‑name. A later tradition associates the site with use as a monk’s cell by Launceston Priory. The ringwork was described by several nineteenth‑century antiquaries, and its rarity has ensured its inclusion in modern reviews of medieval fortified residences in Cornwall.


Upton Castle to Nine Stones: Changing Land Use in the Upper Lynher Valley
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