In 1960 I was posted to a small township in Tanganyika called Tarime, 60
miles from Musoma, an important port and township on Lake Victoria, and
approximately 50 miles from the Kenya border. I had previously been living
at Kigoma, a port and township situated at the end of the 700 mile railway
from Dar es Salaam, where I worked as an Agricultural and Fisheries
Officer. I spent 7 years there but finally was forced to leave in a hurry
because of political upheaval.
Tarime had a local store operated by a nice friendly Sikh who wore very
thick glasses, and was affectionately known by the Africans, and everybody
else, as Bwana Four Eyes. There was a Shell garage and an African
market, a few stray donkeys, and that was it! The total number of
government officers living in Tarime was eight, so with wives and children
the expatriate community, excluding several thousand Africans, was no
more than 25 people. Tarime was mainly a highland district, with a suitable
climate for growing Arabica coffee. My transfer there was to establish
coffee seedling nurseries, of which there were many created. When the
seedlings were large enough to be planted in the African smallholdings, the
Agricultural Department's task was to ensure correct planting, spacing, and
pruning was taught to the local Africans. Drying and preparation for
marketing was also part of their tuition. I had acquired knowledge of coffee
drying factories whilst working on Kilimanjaro during the early 50s. Part of
the process was to ferment the ripe berries in water-filled tanks. The berries
then passed through a mill to remove the pericarp before floating through
water-filled channels which by gravity automatically graded the beans
according to size and density. The beans were then left to dry on large
trays in open-sided huts. Each hut was constructed so as to enable trays with wire mesh bottoms to be stacked in tiers to allow the air to circulate to
complete the drying process.
During one of my safaris inspecting nurseries, I hit a concealed rock and
pushed the front suspension of my Peugeot pick-up completely out of
alignment making the moving of the vehicle impossible. With the aid of an
African chief, I was able to cadge a lift back to Tarime where the general
consensus was I would have to get the car to Nairobi for repairs, some 400
miles away! After a discussion with the District Commissioner he suggested
we could utilise the service of the Native Authority truck, which that week
had to travel to the nearest rail-head at a township called Kisii, just over the
border in Kenya. The truck would be travelling empty in order to collect a
load of corrugated iron sheets from the railway station. So, here was an
opportunity for me to at least get the car to the rail-head whence it would be
transported by train to Nairobi where the main Peugeot agents would collect
it and deliver it to their depot where they had the equipment to stretch and
straighten the front end and chassis.
We set out for Kisii and duly delivered my pick-up to the station. It was
agreed with the African truck driver we would meet at 3 pm to set out for the
return trip to Tarime. At the appointed hour the truck arrived loaded to the
hilt with corrugated iron sheets. I sat with the driver and noticed a rather
distinct smell of African beer pervading the cab, and that the driver
appeared to be very anxious to put his foot down and travel at what I
considered was an excessive speed for a 10-ton load! We crossed the
border into Tanganyika and were travelling through an open grassland area
at a speed of about 50mph over a badly corrugated road. The road declined
towards a gradual bend and suddenly we were confronted with a herd of at
least 100 cattle crossing the road. The driver put his foot on the brake and
shouted "I have no brakes". Of course the beer had muddled his thinking
and I yelled at him to pump the foot pedal, but it was too late, we hit the
cattle crossing the road, and the truck leapt in the air as we began to ride
over the cattle. How the truck remained on an even keel I shall never know,
but we did, and of course we automatically slowed down without the aid of
the brakes because there were at least 6 to 8 animals lodged underneath
the truck, dead and injured of course, to say nothing of the trail of dead and
injured cattle we had left behind!
Behind us was a scene reminiscent of battlefield with dead animals
scattered all over the road. We alighted from the truck and walked a few
yards to where there was an ever increasing gathering of Africans who
seemed to appear from nowhere. The driver and I were immediately
surrounded and there was much shouting and gesticulating, jumping up and down, and when an African does that, beware because it indicates extreme
anger!
The tribesmen, dressed in their usual skins, were armed with spears and I
began to fear for my life. Not surprising because cattle are like money in
the bank for such people and from memory there were at least 10 dead
animals, and double that number injured. One could sympathise with them,
but at that point I was really only thinking of the fate awaiting the driver and
myself! You could claim I was being selfish perhaps? I cannot recall
whether I said a silent prayer or not, but just at that time I looked up the road
and saw the large Mercedes truck owned by Bwana Four Eyes (the Sikh
store owner from Tarime) coming down the road. His driver, too, had
gone to the rail-head to collect provisions for his shop! I did some quick
thinking and whispered to my driver and told him to make a run for it just as
soon as I gave the order, when I gauged the truck would be level with us.
The truck was gaining on us and at the appropriate time I duly gave that
crucial order, "Kimbia!" meaning "run for it", and we did, too, like hell! The
other driver had quickly ascertained our predicament and imminent danger,
and slowed down sufficiently for us to jump on the running board where we
hung there for dear life until well clear of the angry crowd, who followed in
hot pursuit! "Phew," that was a close one indeed, because I lived to tell the
tale.
Next day the District Commissioner sent out one of his officers and took a
driver with him to salvage the truck and bring it back to base. It was minus
quite a large quantity of its load, no doubt taken as a form of compensation
for the loss of the cattle. Could you blame them? No court case was
required to fight for compensation. Some good old fashioned bush justice
had prevailed!
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