I was reminded of someone I came to know about when
posted in 1948 as A.D.O. at Kroh in the Upper Perak district of Malaysia near its
border with Thailand (formerly Siam), the headquarters of which was at a place called
Orik.
Upper Perak will always be associated with one of the most extraordinary
Englishmen who ever served the Empire. Hubert Berkeley was appointed its district
officer in 1891 and remained there until his retirement to England in 1925, a record
thirty-four years. Berkeley believed passionately in rural as opposed to technological
economic progress and conceived himself as having a mission in helping Malays to
become better bumiputra (sons of the soil). One of his achievements was to establish
new settlements for Malays in the vicinity of Kroh following its annexation under the
treaty of 1909 with Siam; and here he introduced irrigation projects on a large scale,
being much interested in the cultivation of wet padi (rice) and convinced that good
agriculture was the only vocation fit for a Malay. In order to achieve his ideals he
refused all offers of promotion out of his beloved district, his post being periodically
up-graded to reflect his growing seniority. He knew his people intimately, some of
them for three generations, and ruled them as a benevolent autocrat, a role which in
my time it would have been impossible to sustain. But in days when the Hulu
(hinterland) had barely been touched by western ideas - and he had no intention that it
should be - it was possible in a remote district to become lost to the outside world for
years on end and consequently to do what one liked. More than this, Berkeley spurned
interference from the British Resident or from any other quarter, and got away with it.
Once, when the Resident got about half way to Grik, his car was stopped by a tree
deliberately felled across the road on Berkeley's orders. Naturally no-one could be
found or persuaded to move it, and the Resident gave up the struggle and returned to Ipoh. A successor, a man named Hume managed to penetrate as far as Grik and
noticed that many thoroughfares had names, Whitehall where the district office was
situated. Downing Street where Berkeley lived at No. 10, Piccadilly, Rotton Row and
of course Berkeley Square, where several roads met at the padang (open space). Hume
enquired why no road was named after himself and Berkeley promised to put the
matter right. Thereafter an observant visitor might have spotted a narrow alley-way
running for a few yards between two shops and then soon ending in thick
undergrowth, where a rough, wooden sign announced it as Hume's Mews. As one of
several reminders of Berkeley's reign, the street signs were still there when I first visited
Grik in 1948. As for the High Commissioner, the only time when this potentate
plucked up courage to attempt a visit, he received a telegram shortly before leaving
Singapore purporting to warn him against floods and containing the cryptic message
"no bridge at the forty-second mile - Berkeley". There never was a bridge and His
Excellency never came.
Berkeley never married officially nor became a Muslim, but he lived, dressed and ate
as a Malay. When acting as D.O. for a few weeks in 1949, I saw at Grik some
fair-skinned young Malays who, I was told, were descended from his progeny. His
spirit still permeated the district at all levels with elderly Malays recalling wistfully the
great days of old as if they had lived in some kind of Arcadia. For the transportation
round the district of himself and others Berkeley kept a herd of tame elephants, of
which I found two survivors, and noticed that Rotton Row was the path between their
grazing ground and the district office. He introduced an Upper Perak coat-of-arms
consisting of an elephant rampant superimposed by a motto in Malay which he
compiled - Koh dahulu (look before you leap). He had the arms embossed on plates and
other things some of which I found still in use. He caused to be worn by all penghulus
(village headmen) and other officials a district badge, incorporating the same design,
one of which together with a plate remains in my, I suppose, illegal possession.
It was a privilege and quite an experience to be invited to stay at his unusual
"menage", where European guests had to be prepared for some surprises; for it was full
of Malays of both sexes whose life-style Berkeley adopted together with some
modifications of his own. There were two thunder-boxes (commodes) set together in
his bathroom opposite the Shanghai jar (for bathing) - all retained for old-times sake
certainly up to 1949, one for himself, the other for his guest, where each morning
arrangements for the coming day were discussed as nature took its course.
In addition to roads, machines, motor-cars, newspapers and money-lenders, he
especially detested lawyers. There was a rare occasion when a lawyer had the audacity
to come to Grik to defend a man charged with theft. Sitting as magistrate, Berkeley
listened for a minute or two as evidence was produced, then stopped the proceedings
by saying: "I do not want to hear anymore. He's guilty". To the lawyer's protest that
the defence had not been called, he replied: "Of course he's guilty. He always was a
cattle thief, as were his father and grandfather before him". Berkeley's ideas of legal
procedure were also idiosyncratic. One day when about to leave on an elephant ride,
the Court Clerk came up to him to say that there were some cases for hearing. On
Berkeley enquiring how many, the clerk replied that there were twenty-five all
pleading guilty to the same offence. "All right," said Berkeley, "odd numbers
discharged, even numbers fined five dollars". Then he rode off. He greatly preferred
his own summary justice to that of the Indian Code. When a boundary dispute arose,
he adjourned the court and summoned the litigants to accompany him to the site. Here
he formed them into two teams and held a tug-of-war contest using rotan creepers
from the jungle, awarding the disputed land to the winning team. To an enquiry about
the use to which a particular building was put, he replied: "This is the court-house.
Here we dispense justice but not law".
He affected almost royal airs. Coming as he did from an aristocrat background, he
regarded himself as a combination of a Malay chief and an English squire. He
sometimes went all the way to Kroh to bathe at a spot called Ayer Panas (hot springs),
not on an elephant which would have been too slow, but in an English landau and pair
with a Malay postilion dressed in a garment coloured to correspond with the Berkeley
family livery. Even when outside the district he travelled with liveried guards and a
large private tent. Eccentric he undoubtedly was, but as was later testified by one of his
Malay subordinates, "he was a real gentleman who always supported those in need
usually from his own pocket," and who was kind and benevolent in his autocratic way.
Within the district he was respected and obeyed without question. Outside he
evidently had his enemies. Years later I learnt from someone whose father had known
Berkeley that there were many who considered his eccentricities to go well beyond the
bounds of propriety.
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